You usually judge the camber fairly well by looking at the front tires, viewed from the front. You can measure precise holding a carpenter's level vertical and tape-measure horizontally to top and bottom of wheel rim, subtract, calculate angle (recall arctan, and stupid kids who said, "I'll never need this", or enter as "gradient" then switch to "deg" on calculator). For those that don't know, camber is how the tires lean in towards the car (negative). Most people today want slight negative camber, for better cornering, and radial tires are forgiving. IndyCars are set extreme (google images).

I doubt it would much affect how the car pulls to the side. Our 1996 minivan was hit on the side, shoving the top frame in. Even w/ the LCA adjustment at limits of the slotted hole in the new strut (I even filed the hole more), the left front was still leaning in much more than the right. But, the van drove straight w/ hands off the wheel on the highway. I eventually pushed the frame rail back w/ a porta-power (while head was off engine for room) and got the camber set correct. Toe-in can greatly affect how the car wanders and how tires wear (inside edges if too much toe-in).

I have read that if caster is different between L & R that can cause the car to pull to one side. On my 300D, you adjust caster via the guide rod mount screw (have never done). The one time I had the LCA bushing unbolted, I left all that in place and just slid the LCA inner pivot out of the K-frame. If the shop did that, they wouldn't have touched the guide rod adjustments.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans