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Old 03-29-2003, 08:03 PM
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dmorrison dmorrison is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Colleyville, Texas
Posts: 2,695
Nib

When you say leaking fuel lines. There are 2 lines ( 2 steel lines from the engine to the tank and then 2 short rubber lines that connect the steel line to the tank line, I'm discussing the rubber lines) that are easy to get to from below the car. The lines that are not easy to get to are the vent and overflow lines that are above the gas tank in the station wagon . You will need to buy 1 meter of fuel line. You actually need less but its usually sold by the meter.
Jack up the car and place it on jack stands. Use a Philips head screw driver to remove the clamps on the 2 fuel lines that you will see at the front bottom of the fuel tank. Cut the fuel line you purchased to the lenght of the old lines and install the new line with the old clamps.
Consider the following.
Do the job with a empty tank. Or at least as empty as you would feel comfortable with. Allow the diesel to drain into a container so you can recycle it.
While your down there and have the tank empty. Remove and clean or replace the fuel tank screen. ( The fuel tank screen is that round washer looking thing in the center bottom of the fuel tank, it has a 22 MM recess to unscrew it) You will need a 22 MM allen wrench. Or if you don't want to spend a fortune on one of those. Go to a hardware store and buy a bolt and 2 nuts. The size bolt will have a head that is 22 MM. Jamb the 2 nuts on the bolt and use that to remove and replace the fuel tank screen.
While the screen is out stick you finger in the tank and see how much sludge is in your tank. You may want to clean out as much as you can. Or you may not find any.
While the fuel hoses were off the tank I blew air through the steel line from the Cigar hose and the hose that goes to the IP to clear out any debris that may have been in the line.

Add fuel and consider replacing the inline and fuel filters in a week or two

Or do you mean that the steel lines have a hole in them. There are 2 lines going from the tank to the engine. The supply line and the return line. If the steel line has to be replaced You will have to lower the rear subframe. And if your going to have to do that you need to remove the coil springs before you drop the assembly. If your doing that you may want to consider replacing the sub frame bushings, trailing arm bushings and possibly the rear springs. Since you will have all of this out to do the job. $235 for the springs, subframe bushing and trailing arm bushings. Now while your under there check your axel boots. Cracks are normal but no tears. Hows the ride of the rear suspention, bounce? Now would be the time to replace the hydraulic accumulators for the rear suspension. Your right there and its just a unbolt and rebolt to change them out. But if the ride is OK, wait.
I find it hard to believe that the steel line has a hole in it. I bet your problem is the rubber hose that goes from the steel line to the tank.

Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
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Last edited by dmorrison; 03-29-2003 at 11:09 PM.
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