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Old 08-06-2017, 01:50 AM
GeoffinOz GeoffinOz is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Port Pirie, South Australia
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post

For this to be true, the cam magnet would need to see a PWM input to modulate the oil valve. I'm not so sure this is the case since oil pressure isn't well regulated and the PWM dwell would constantly be trying to catch up making for a surge.

I don't think there is any benefit to a partly advanced cam over on / off anyway and I don't recall seeing a " cam advance X degrees "data value when wing a Star on my 97 SL or C280 ( this has ME 2.0 / 2.1 )

Hang a scope on the cam magnet input and have a look. ( or for a more portable way, a volt meter )
Ok, not quite sure I'm following this. Is there supposed to be a magnet on the lug on the camshaft that the cam sensor 'sees'? There isn't. AFAIK it's just a bit of metal that induces a slight voltage (around 2mv as near as I can tell) in the sensor (which is much the same as the crank sensor, it's just a winding of wire on a core) so it generates a pulse, I don't see any evidence of modulation - pulse width or otherwise, though I suppose the pulse width would be shorter at high speed and lower at idle. I'm not sure exactly how it works, but I'm not following the oil bit, there's a solenoid device at the end of the camshaft that is driven by the ECU which (somehow) adjusts the camshaft and thus the valve timing, AFAIK, it's on or off, not a variable thing, but I could be wrong.

One bit of good news. The missing has been fixed. It seems there was a pinhole in a plug lead boot I missed. I went through all the leads and boots again today and found it. Hard to miss with a big white patch of oxidation all around it. Can't get leads here so I have used a 'conventional' silicone plug lead from a Nissan, pushed it on the plug, then peeled off the damaged rubber boot over the plug end of the original lead and put the distributor end and it's boot into the connector that used to go to the plug with the Nissan distributor type boot over the top to stop it flashing over. Works perfectly. I'll get a new set of plug leads, but for some stupid reason a set of 3 appears to be something like $200 which is ridiculous even for Mercedes Benz I think. But it's smooth as silk now, the issue with the failure to rev up from idle remains, although it's not quite as bad now because at least it's running on 6 instead of 5. I suspect this is either injectors or possibly low fuel pressure. Can anyone say what the fuel pressure in the injector rail should be? There is some known issue with o rings in a surge tank on Musso's but not sure if that's associated with this problem or not - have to look into it further - but aside from injectors about the only other thing would be the fuel pump not delivering enough pressure, not sure if that happens - my experience with fuel pumps is that they work or don't, but it's my first Mercedes engine so... I did notice one injector has a small fuel weep where it goes into the rail, so I'll need to attend to that as well. That's a recent thing, but it does suggest they were either not new injectors (look used to me) when they were replaced or they didn't use new O rings (probably that too). What's a set of injectors and O rings worth these days? Is it worth getting them rebuilt? I CAN get a set of rebuilt/reconditioned injectors from Ebay for $220AU which seems like a good price, any experience with recond v new injectors out there please?

Regards

Geoff

Geoff in Oz
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