Quote:
Originally Posted by karshack
Considering removing Bolt #72 and the jointed assembly #60 for inspection, but not sure if that can be done without removing the right axle tube?
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Do what ever it takes to get call out 72 and 60 out of the way. After that remove the left side cover and the "differential" proper ( right hand side of call out 4 ) will fall out of the housing call out 1. There is no need to remove the 8 bolts holding the ring gear on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by karshack
At what point of the disassembly/diagnosis should I stop
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Whenever you determine what parts are broken! The determining factor to repair / replace is locating parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by karshack
and just look for a replacement differential pineapple?
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When the cost / availability of repair parts outstrips the cost of a used unit. At that point, if you need non final drive ( ring and pinion / diff housing it bolts to ) specific parts, your universe of parts has expanded as generally you can use parts from another ratio.
At minimum, a diff should be able to take 10 minutes to look at cleaned parts and tell you what is broken. If you are able to source all the parts and specs then, the diff shop should be able to fix this. The limiting factor is ring and pinion replacement as it takes special tools to set pinion depth properly. Generally, one can change bearings without affecting this. Diff bearing preload / R & P backlash is set by turning the bearing adjusters making it super easy.
In reality, this diff isn't much different than a 80's Ford 4 WD truck with "Twin I beam " front suspension.