View Single Post
Old 04-01-2003, 10:52 PM
md21722 md21722 is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,006
Some mechanics will ONLY use "dealer rubber" on the suspension. In some cases, the Worldpac parts from places like Fastlane cause obscure problems. When you purchase the torque, thrust, and camber links you must purchase new bolt kits and three sleeves per side. The new and old bolt kits are different and not compatable. The old bolts are 17 mm/19 mm head head/nut and the newer bolts are 12 mm XZN (triple square, NOT Torx) and 18 mm nuts. The driver is available from Lisle, etc at McParts.

There is a support joint where the lower control attachs to the wheel carrier. Its pressed in/out in a very tight fit. This typically will also go bad with age. The control arm bushings themselves rarely go bad, but if you want to replace them its $60-75/ea for the control arm unless you figure a way to press in/out the control arm bushing ($4-6/ea).

The axle halfshaft should be horizontal when tightening the bolts. This simulates the way the suspension would normally be compressed when the car is resting on the wheels. A floor jack under the wheel carrier is a good way to do that.

The rear differential mounts (4 in all) may also be replaced. Typically they will rot away. The test here is put a 12 mm hex driver on one of the bolts and move it. If the diff moves back and forth, change them. There are two mounts in the front of the diff (disc shaped) but only one (one the bottom) is really visisble. Those two disc mounts are the same ($14/ea). The rear diff mounts described are difficult to change. Some cut them with a torch, others buy or borrow the tool (press fit like the support joint).

As far as the subframe mounts, they're about $95 for the fronts, and $25/ea + bolt kits in the rear. The dealer book is 8 hrs for the fronts and 2.5 hrs for the rear. It involves pressing the old mounts out and pressing the new ones in. Creative use of bolts, nuts, washers, and sockets to simluate a mount pusher/puller can be used to get them in and out. Be sure to lube the mounts with as much spray silicone as they will take or the MB sliding fluid otherwise the rear mounts will not fit properly into the subframe. Do one side at a time. Be sure to remove the drain hose in the subframe on the passenger side and loosen/support the exhaust when doing the drivers side.
Brian Toscano
Reply With Quote