Hi Graham! Thank you for replying ( I was hoping you would, seeing as you seem like the resident Pertronix expert
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So it ended up being a flooded engine (sorry for the dramatic post, I was freaking out wondering if I did some serious electrical damage to the car, thankfully I did not).
I removed the plugs and cranked the motor with the starter to clear the cylinders, and I got the car working with points again (like ****, but thats because I probably messed up the dwell angle).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham
That green wire in second pic. Is that the wire from the distributor points? If so, it goes direct to the switchgear. On the diagrams you used, the green wire went to terminal where you attached the black wire and that was correct for car wired that way. So we need to look at wiring diagrams with later switchgear and determine where the black wire can be easily connected so it goes to same place as the points green wire. OK, according to attached diagram below, the black wire from Pertronix should go to center pin of terminal 7 of the switchgear on your W116.
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Regards Pertronix II - I bought the II unit because knowing me, I would leave the ignition on for too long, frying the I unit (just looking after my own self).
In regards to GREEN WIRE - In STATIC Pic one with the captions of where I placed, that's AFTER I replaced the points and reconnected the wire from Ignition Control Unit. It's just an illustrative picture to show how I wired the Pertronix II and it did not work.
In the No Start YouTube Video Clip - that's with the Pertronix II installed, Green Point/ICU wire disconnected, and Pertronix II wired as per the diagrams in the linked threads from other owner attempts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham
The Pertronix II info says it must not be used with the original copper cored plug wires. Link III says to use model 1885, the original Pertronix Ignitor that does work with copper cored wires. It can be burned out if the key is left on with distributor in just the wrong position (does not happen in normal iuse). Pert II apparently protects itself against this. But just how, I don't know. No experience with it. Maybe you could swap Ignitor II for an Ignitor I?
First step is to get car running again with points. Make sure points are set properly - A gap of 0.014" is a good start (should be checked with dwell meter)
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Thank you for verifying the type of original Spark Plug wires. The Spark Plug wires appear to be BOSCH original ( but still in good condition, insulation and connector wise). I could not determine whether the BOSCH High Temp Silicone (as it's labeled) were solid copper core or not.
I have an extra new pair of Karyn/Bremi/STI wires. Should those work with the Pertronix II?
I want to reattempt the PErtronix II. If I rewire again to the diagram using the KARYN wires, it should work?
If I read your reply correctly, I should leave that ICU Green Points Wire and attach that to the Black Pertronix II? I have loop connectors and can easily connect those with a nut/bolt and a lead cover. Or do they have to meet at the Ballast Resistor to make the Tach work?
Thanks again Graham
