Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300
If you know that the timing chain is in good shape and you use the timing pin lock, you don't need the A/B light.
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Timing chain is new one year ago. The AB light rental is cheap enough that I'm willing to spring for it just for peace of mind. It will gnaw at me otherwise! I wouldn't buy the thing for one job, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300
You'll also want an intake manifold gasket and possibly new plastic clips and rubber pads for your injection lines.
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I replaced most of those when I did the injector nozzles, but I think I lost one, and I have a metal bracket leftover that I need to figure out where to put. I'm tracking on the gaskets, in fact I think I have an extra laying around. Will probably get around to the EGR delete while the manifold is off, and have all the soot cleaned out as well. I will say that IM removal looks like a royal pain, especially dealing with all the throttle linkages and cruise control actuator. Planning lots of pictures before starting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300
Having swapped the IP more times than anyone ever should in a single engine, it helps to have a 2nd person assist you when lining up the IP and installing the bolts. The tensioner gets in the way and can be a real PITA if you're trying to balance the IP and make sure everything is in the right place.
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Thanks for the heads up. Doesn't the timing basket help here? Have you done with and without? You know a part number for the thing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300
Another experience call: File the slot in the timing lock pin deeper. Use the side of a file to cut a square-profile slot in it. The face of the tool has a V-shaped notch in it (but the pin on the IP is square-profile). It doesn't do that great of a job securely holding the pin from moving. Believe me, you don't want to install the IP and discover AFTER you put the bolts in that the tool came loose and the pin moved.
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Good thinking! There are several versions around, so I'll see if any are deeper and/or flat, as you describe - otherwise I'll modify accordingly.
Does the pump need to be primed with fuel or oil after install? Or do you just crank and crank and crank until she starts up?