Quote:
Originally Posted by gmog220d
That's a lot of effort to get at those screws!
I've got a inexpensive auto parts store screw driver that's bent 90 degrees on each end, with Phillips on one end and a flat blade on the other. It works great for stuff like this job. I might also be tempted to try a 1/4 inch ratchet with a Phillips bit on it, if there's room to work it. If you've got easy access to a auto parts or home improvement store you might find a inexpensive solution. But I like using my welder too, so I won't knock another for making their own tools!
I've poked around behind a W115 dash a few times, but not for the ign. switch. Looks like an "easy" one if you can get the screws out without too much trouble.
I jumped at the opportunity to pick up printed copies of the W114/W115 chassis service books. They come in handy for oddball info. like this switch removal/install procedure. I hope it was helpful to you.
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Yes it's fixed . I just cut a cheap flat blade screwdriver and welded a tiny cross brace . Like a Drill Chuck . Worked like a charm . I could hear the factory "Crack" sound . I work on vintage stereo gear and you have to "crack" the screws . As you know . I installed the new switch and it was tight . The old beast turned right over . I wish I could post a pic of the tool but it ended up falling past a heater air tube and is lost .
Yes Ratchets are the best . Just the cheap ones will do . But if you are torquing from behind . Not pushing and turning . It would be hard and sloppy.
Probably not enough tolerance to fit it in there .
With the old stereo gear , you can tell when people use the wrong tip and torque method . The head becomes damaged . Then out come the vice grips . I knew in advance I could never put a set of V Grips behind a Merc Ignition switch .
Thanks . I appreciate you copying me the image out of the manual . That was a great visual explanation .