hey, i'm repeatedly running into 2 separate key lock issues with my 85 300D, and thought i'd try to get a more definite answer than the various past posts i read.


1) frozen door locks.
i've been locked out in 20°F weather a couple times this winter.
i’ve read:
- maybe the o ring is letting water in, but changing it seems to be a bit much.
- well lubed locks don’t freeze.
- WD-40 is not a true lubricant and more of a water displacing solvent.
- graphite, but that would end up in the ignition tumbler, and wouldn't it rinse away in rain anyway?
- so what is the proper lube for door lock that won’t attract dirt? all purpose grease? white lithium?
- also to note i've used rubbing alcohol to unfreeze, and it seemed to help. but the other day, after rain, i got in my car, moved it to another parking spot, and then somehow the tumbler was frozen when i tried to lock it.
- i prefer manual entry over remote
- i've also had my bicycle locks freeze, so i'm hoping the same lube will work for that.

also while i'm at it,
- the right lube for door checks, grease?
- is it possible to lube your seatbelt so it doesn’t jam, without taking it apart? it only happens now and then.

-

2) steel keys.
i've kind of given up on this.
- the MB plastic heads always break.
- i've read that brass copies leaving shavings.
- the locksmiths say that’s nonsense, citing the fact that apt door tumblers dont’ get jammed with shavings, but car locks are exposed to dirt/soot which is more likely to jam them up. and that steel keys would damage a tumblr faster. however they don’t know w123s.
- also i’ve had brass blanks stop working after just a few months, so i tried to use all steel keys.
- i found silca YM23 steel blanks on ebay, made in italy, german ebay seller. i've gone through 4 of them, 2 different locksmiths copied my master key from the classic center, and none of the copies worked on the passenger door or trunk, just the driver door and ignition. (earlier this winter my propane tent heater, which i use as my cordless city block heater, was locked in the trunk when the 20° weather didn't allow vacuums to unlock the trunk, and then it took a bit longer to start the engine)
- i saw one post that some originals were MB39, some were MB41. one of my brass blanks is MB41/X82, the other is YM31, they both work. makes me wonder if the silca YM23 is slightly wrong one, but i found no other all steel blanks.

thanks!

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w123
1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
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