Quote:
Originally Posted by pimpernell
The 3-stage torque procedure for the barrels is 30Nm, release, 30Nm, release, final torque 30-35Nm.
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This is correct and must be followed, or there is a risk that the proper torque won't be achieved or the DV may bind and warp the body of the injection pump.
Just one addition: The final torque step is to torque the DV to 30Nm, and then torque it to 35Nm (two-stage torque).
Why three steps, and then last step has two stages? The first two steps ensure that the DV and internals are all straight and seated and the o-rings find their place. The last step with two stages does the same (belts + suspenders + holding on with both hands) AND then the higher final torque crushes the copper washer a bit more to ensure a good tight seal there.
As pointed out, the copper washer MUST be changed or softened so that it can form a good seal, as it has been work hardened from the last installation and subsequent use. If you are in a tight spot and don't have a new washer, try this. I have not tried this, so no promise it will work, but may be worth a shot to get the car back on the road. An old washer can be softened and reused by heating with a torch until glowing nice and orange and then allowing to cool. Suspend on a piece of steel wire for this step. Clean it off really well to get any carbon or oxidation off. DO NOT use sand paper - that will leave grit embedded which will then scratch up the internals or worse let go and do damage internal to the injection pump or to the injector. Use brake cleaner or alcohol and a clean cloth to polish it up.