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Originally Posted by ScooterABC
The front brakes have two cylinders per wheel, one on bottom and one on top. In this case there isn't an anchor point that gets adjusted, only the one adjustment for each shoe for that wheel. Adjust until some friction then back off, then adjust the other one until some friction then back off.
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Oh, OK, two double ended wheel cylinders. I was thinking of the Chrysler front setup with 2 single ended wheel cylinders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterABC
It would seem that I cannot adjust for proper concentric contact and that arcing is needed. I strongly believe at least the rear shoes are new. I have not seen the front shoes because I don't have the special tool to remove the center hub cover (it unscrews somehow)..
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Yep, you need to get the drums off for a look. If the shoes are soaked in oil you would have poor braking as would if the lining is too hard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterABC
Does the brake master push rod need to be adjusted with respect to the pedal location? I should go look at this and see if I can see it.
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You want to make sure when the pedal is pushed it is pushing on the master cylinder piston. If the rod is too short you are just pushing against the return spring. There needs to be say 1/16" to 1/8" rod to piston free play. The measurement I'm specing isn't peddle travel, peddle travel will be longer.
Does this car have manual or power brakes? If manual, pushing the peddle with your fingers to take up the slack and feeling for a bump or wiggling the rod until it stops while pushing would be a test.
If this has a brake booster like a modern car, pulling the master cylinder back and measuring rod to mounting surface or booster then measuring piston to surface or master cylinder is needed.
If this car has a remote vacuum booster this becomes more complicated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterABC
I believe everything to be stock and the hoses are new, although the front hoses are too long. It very much DOES feel as I would imagine for swelling brake hoses. I do not know what backing plate flex or brake drum flex mean.
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The baking plate is the circular metal disc where the adjusters / wheel cylinders / brake shoes attach to. If this is bent and brakes are applied, the plate will try to spring back into position giving long pedal travel.
If the brake drums are too thin ( like wayy. . too thin ) , they will flex as the brakes are applied. Remember, the brake shoes push outward in 2 semi circles, this tends to flex the drum. Grab the top of a round plastic garbage can and pull outward with hands 180* from each other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterABC
I have verified that the rear brake shoes are wearing on approximately 50% of their faces. That was observed prior to adjust the brakes.
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Is this wear at top , center or bottom of shoe? If brakes are run out of adjustment then adjusted, they won't stop so well until the shoe wears enough to fully contact the drum. ( Back to the arching you talked about )