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Old 02-23-2018, 09:05 AM
ScooterABC ScooterABC is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Los Angeles (Altadena)
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First of all, thanks for the reply. Questions:
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddMersaid View Post
If you feel the push rod is adjusted correctly, then take off one line at a time at each wheel. Put the end of the line in a empty soda bottle. Fill the master resovior. Have a helper push down on the pedal. Watch the force of the fluid and mark the volume of one pedal push. Do this to each wheel. Start with an empty bottle each wheel.
That can't be done for all of the cylinders. The front brakes have two cylinders that are connected to each other by tubing. All I can do is verify that when you bleed the brakes a reasonable but not excessive amount comes out for each wheel. (not each wheel cylinder - one could be blocked, the other fine for a given front wheel). Given that, I'm not sure how removing a line (i.e., need to rebleed the brakes) can be done easily and the same thing is accomplished with a clear brake bleeding tube going into an empty bottle. I don't think one pump is going to be measurable accurately for volume in a soda bottle - it isn't that much - but I think the idea is that a reasonable pedal stroke of fluid ought to come out of the tube consistent with the speed of pushing down the pedal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddMersaid View Post
BTW, is there a proportionating valve in this system by any chance ?.
If so, you may have to start before that point. It should be just after the M.C. some where.

A rebuilt M.C. is my first suspect. But it could be ok if you prove it as I just explained.
I do not see a proportioning valve. I'm not exactly sure what I'm trying to find out in this process. What I know from bleeding the brakes is:
1) if the bleed valve is closed there is resistance on the pedal, if the bleed valve is open there is only the resistance from the pedal spring.
2) if the bleed valve is barely open, I can push the pedal down with more resistance than if open and less resistance than if closed.
3. each pedal stroke in bleeding the brakes results in a squirt of fluid (although it's below fluid depth in the catch container) and the squirt of fluid does not have a pause as if there is a pinched hose. I can feel the fluid being expelled with each pump.

Given this, what could the master cylinder be doing wrong? I think what I need to check is to see if I get a hydraulic reaction at each wheel cylinder at the start of the stroke on the master cylinder (and consistent throughout the stroke). Does that seem like a good thing to do? Something tells me I should not push the brake pedal all the way down with no brake drums or the wheel cylinders might shoot out the ends. Not sure on that. If the brake drum isn't there to stop it, what does stop it before it pops out of the wheel cylinders...?
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