For those who want to do the Job that Thomaspin has described, on a 300TD wagon I have some advise.
I just replaced the differential mount on the 300TD
Due to the rear fuel tank in the wagon being behind the rear suspension. It is in the way of the 2 large bolts. I could not use a ratchet and socket to get to the 2 bolts. What I used was a 22MM socket and a 1 1/4 inch long piece of 3/8 square steel. The square steel is inserted into the socket and then a 3/8 open box wrench is used to turn the socket. Because of the setup you cannot torque the 2 large bolts.
All of this could be avoided if you remove the fuel tank. Not something I wanted to do, even though its empty. I estimated the torque on the 2 bolts and of course used loctite.
Keep the 2 bolts loose untill you have the 4 top mounting bolts torqued. You have to pry the unit around to get the bolts into the holes. Then you can "torque" the 2 bolts.
Additionally IF you lower the differential to assist in the access to the bolts. Make sure you disconnect the brake hoses and the sway bay connectors.
The picture shows the socket, the square tool and a C shaped tool I made for installing the subframe bushings.
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car