View Single Post
  #26  
Old 06-10-2018, 12:55 PM
funola's Avatar
funola funola is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Note the person said retorquing. Not extracting sheared bolts or doing a repair right.

If this has a root cause, which is not fixed by doing it once (I.e. One would want to do it for peace of mind), having to take that many steps turns into a hassle, which means it won't get done.

Having something with cured loctite means to me that threads would not be the same as if it was metal to metal only.

Fixing it the right way the first time, sure. Remove the stuff. On mine I was pulling the compressor anyway. If one is not, evacuating to pull the condenser on an R12 system is a pricy proposition.

And if even loctite red won't give peace of mind due to the consistent vibration and thermal cycling on this part, then a routine torque check may be prudent. If that's the case, removing a ton of stuff is impractical.

Mine went at 70k. That means that a 60k-ish retorque may be prudent if we don't know otherwise about the true cause. Removing everything to do that just isn't practical.

And the context I was stating was for re-checking. I'm surprised you would think anyone wouldn't do the most rigorous processs possible after a failure.
There is an easier way! Just put permanent paint dots (such as POR 15) on the bolts and pulley, check with a mirror to see if they have backed out.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote