That is what I based part of my last thread on. It actually cycling off and on. Your expression of running in bursts. As his new unit is. Means it is running very slow and drawing very low current. When it is running.

Except perhaps when it has been shut off and there is a large temperature differential present to initially overcome. Then it will run much harder until it reduces the differential substantially. Then slow down to almost nothing in his case.

Based on it also cycling off at times when the sun is out.

For the last poster I wanted to mention. If you have a decent aluminium foil radiant heat barrier incorporated it will reduce the demand by about thirty percent in your garage. There are cheap ways to do this.

Hard on a retrofit of a house other than perhaps the attic area. A lot of garages existing are much easier. It needs an air space on the interior side. I have also seen it operating fairy efficient with just open air in front of it.

You cannot give the foil an R value. What is known is that about a third of heating and cooling losses are radiant based. My feeling is if you have air space on both sides of the foil. You probably would be really surprised.

It has surprised me and allowed me to design and heat a small thirteen hundred foot house with only a one ton heat pump. It actually does a good job of servicing that house. As well it has good conventional insulation as well. as the radiant.

I am beefing up the insulation on our own house at this time. Unfortunatly there is no easy way to incorporate an efficient radiant barrier in the process. If I could a ton and a half unit would probably almost heat and cool the 2000 plus square foot house.

I am installing one and hope it will cope with a lot of the load. Before the retrofit it takes about two three tanks of fuel oil or 600 gallons to get this house through the winter in eastern Canada. That is pretty good for this location but I want it even better.

A two ton unit for a two car garage to me indicates your garage might also benefit from some type of insulation. Foil is cheap and the returns of the cost are fast. If you do it yourself.

Experience has taught me that there is no other way to stop the radiant loss. Or gain. You can make conventional insulation a foot thick in the walls and the radiant loss will still occur. Or in the case of summer still enter the garage through the general insulation.

Power here is about 18 cents a kilowatt hour. Not the cheapest but makes straight resistance heating like baseboards too expensive.