Re: time to awake the beast!!!
Whenever a car goes into short term storage (and I'm assuming inside storage), the oil and filter should be changed just prior to storage. Fresh oil in the pan will last indefinitely, so there is no need to change when you bring it out of storage, BUT the clock runs on antifreeze and brake fluid while in storage, so be aware if these fluids should be changed prior to storage if they will expire soon. When the car is brought out of storage, the oil can be run for the full time or mileage change interval.
It's best to remove the battery and charge it monthly or leave a Battery Tender on it. Also, fill the tires to at or near the maximum cold pressure placarded on the tires or at least 35 psi, and fill the fuel tank to capacity. This minimizes the vapor dome volume at the top, which will minimize any moisture condensation in the tank.
To remove from storage, do a visual inspection to look for any fluid leaks or other signs of a problem, install a freshly charged battery, and start it up. Modern FI engines will start quickly after a few cranks - more like letting the car sit a couple of days than several months or a year.
The biggest potential for damage in storage is rodents, so place traps/poison under the car, in the engine compartment, interior, and even trunk. Guys don't want to believe this, but it's true!!!
I've been storing/swapping my 190E 2.6 (winter car) with my '91 MR2 (summer car) for about ten years now, and neither car has any issues related to storage. Storage preparation pays off, but, unfortunately, most guys just "park" their car and call it storage without any prep, and that will lead to problems.
In your case, where the car was inadavertetly stored with dirty oil, I would recommend starting it, and then changing the oil after it completely warms up. In particular, you don't want to change the filter prior to start up as it will take several seconds to fill, which increases time for oil to reach the bearings.