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air flow and idle screw positions must be consistent so the amount of fuel for the air flowing is consistent. The actual numbers from the air meter are all relative. The presumption is that it's off a little on each carb when you put in place, so it should be uniformly off for each one. (It's also that Heisenberg thing about taking the measurement disturbing the system under test).
If you move the throttle by hand and let go, it should immediately return to idle position. The carb might take a moment to react, but the physical linkage with its springs and pivots should respond as quickly as you can imagine.
Ah, these are the older carbs, there is a little tube that is supposed to be filled with oil to act as a damper on how the throttle moves, it has a counter-weight too. That mechanism in that tube might be binding and it needs to be reloaded with oil. It's a 10W oil, transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil both work fine for it.
Also WD40 isn't a lubricant. Use a light machine oil or white grease instead.
-CTH
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