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Old 05-01-2003, 11:18 AM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Linn, Or
Posts: 341
Thumbs up Another good thing about a canister-type...

...filter is that you can easily remove/replace the filter (and about 8 oz. of oil, too) from the top.

The nice thing about a MB dipstick is that you can actually READ the oil level re: overfilling, too! I always like to see some metal showing beneath the upper red marker.

jsmith's comment is 100% correct. The 16 oz. (2 oz. Auto-Rx per 8 quart oil capasity) I added barely made the line on the dipstick move after I replaced the filter and cleaned out the canister on my 420SEL. Proper treatment requires a new filter (but, not necessarilly new oil) for the 500-1,000 mile initial 16 oz. application, then an oil & filter change, drive for about 2,000 miles, add 16 oz. Auto-Rx and drive for another 500-1,000 miles, change oil & filter again and you are done. A 3 oz. maintenance dose (I'm going to use 4 oz. because of my 8 quart oil capasity) is also recommended.

In answer to your questions, tdk_M119, but in no real order:

The transmission product is the same as the engine product: just follow the application directions, which encourage you to remove ALL transmission fluid after the treatment. Notice this is accomplished when standard MB service procedures are followed, i.e. the draining of the torque convertor. I just had a transmission service done on both the SVX & the 420SEL so I'm waiting a bit before trying it in the transmissions. Probably will go into the C6 and the AOD in the other vehicles, too.

As far as the SVX goes, we just love that car. Had one transmission replacement done (under warranty) at about 55K miles: all the design/mechanical upgrades had been long determined by that time (circa 1997) and the failures that had plagued some of the early production were not as prevelant in later years. Realize that some of the people that have/almost worship this car drive them VERY, VERY HARD. Most early problems had to do with the fluid overheating because of blockage in the tranny fluid cooler lines or in the tranny fluid filter. Regular tranny service (each 30K) and CHECKING THE FLID LEVEL (duh!) is supposed to be the ticket, but addition of an aftermarket cooler, aftermarket filter system and use of Redline's high temp ATF is also highly recommended. Especially by those who drive these things at 105 mph around curves.

I actually had more problems with the rear wheel bearings than any other item on the car, and that was a series of improper installation procedures by the dealer, all also done under warranty. Other than that, not much has ever gone wrong... My driver's door power window went SNAP! last week and I'm hoping it is just an $8 clip that broke because the motor runs fine. Maybe the cable? We'll see.

The motor is a jewel, build like an MB with an almost bullet-proof bottom end. I expect to get many years and many miles yet out of mine. According to my records I have spent less than $3,000 in repairs, normal service, parts & tires (including a set of OEM wheels and studded snows) over 11 years and 100+K miles. Everything except gas & insurance.

Should have bought two.

Absolutely the best car for rain & snow I've ever driven. I guess there are a few Audi's that will give it a run for its money, but they all cost a lot more. The AWD system is totally transparent to me.


'91 420 SEL @ 199K, '92 SVX @ 181K, '93 SC400 @ 86K, '93 Kaw ZX-11 @ 30K, '87 F250 @ 181K , 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6K, Y2K Honda NightHawk 250 with 1.5K, '88 420SEL I.@ 179K & the 2nd latest, an '88 420SEL II.@ 210K runnin' parts car, '85 F150 300/NP435
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