Quote:
Originally Posted by ToeDipper
Hello forum members. I'm considering my first MB -- but the car I'm looking at is a 1987 300D. Can I ask some reactions from you? (PS I've read other forum discussions about problems with this particular model.)
The seller's asking price is very good, partly because it's a slog to get there. Warning signs: The car runs and rides but "needs a new water pump and radiator." These are obvious signs that it had a coolant issue at one point. The head is not a "14" head -- it's a "15" if I'm reading it correctly. (Picture attached). I'm hoping this means it's more durable, and has less chance of being cracked. And, the seller claims the oil is clean, not milky. I figure a new water pump and radiator will run me about $800 together. Even with this, the car would be worth it to me if it runs well.
I'm going to have a local shop inspect the car, so hopefully compression numbers will tell a bigger story.
Any wisdom you could offer would be much appreciated!
Adam
Portland, OR
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My blue '87 300D is still my pet car. I got it needing a lot of parts to get it running again, including a replacement #14 head (also a #14) which has been reliable and served me well for almost 10 years. The 124 has minimal electronics which makes it reliable. I get as much as 28.3 MPG when on the highway.
Many feel the W124 chassis was the last of the hand made Benz's.
I echo the other comments about rust, it is hard to stop and anything significant means you should walk away and don't regret it.
Examine the bottom side closely and poke any bubbles in the paint that might be covering rust.
Unless you price was for Dealer Parts only (to be avoided unless for items which are dealer only in nature) the quoted $800 should include about $500 in labor which you could DIY if you are inclined and have the tools.
With the radiator out access to the water pump is easy.
Change the thermostat with a good quality one unless you have service records that show it was changed.
Refill with the proper antifreeze. MB is now blue, or I believe they are switching to lavender shade now. Forum members get real picky abut what the right antifreeze to be used in a car with an aluminum cylinder head (for good reason) its probably OK as long as you don't use the green goo they still sell for "older" cars.
Count on needing some rubber bushings in the suspension, and the engine mounts are known for short life, this is where service records are necessary to put together a list of what will need to be replaced eventually if not ASAP. If it drives straight and the steering is tight and responsive you are way ahead of a car that hasn't had much attention over its life.
I would check how the transmission fluid looks and smell it - it should be bright red and not smell burnt. If it slides thru a shift instead of feeling crisp then it may need to be repaired.
Let us know what you find when / if you go to check it out.
DDH