Thanks for the replies everyone. Since starting the thread, I've made some repairs. I installed new zimmerman front rotors, brembo brake pads, and new front wheel bearings. Upon the removal of one bearing, I found it was totally shredded, which made for a difficult time removing the races. The car now tracks straighter, with no wobbling sound, or brake wobble.
While the car was on jack stands, I tore into the doors to replace the window scraping rubbers on all four windows. These had to have been original, because they were in horrible shape, and likely the culprit for water in the cab. They were especially warped around the lock, probably from someone trying to break in at some point. I wire brushed the rust off the bottom of the doors, and used Rust Bullet paint to prevent more corrosion. With the doors cards removed, I also lubricated the check straps and window tracks, and added some soundproofing.
I thought the driver door check strap was broken, but it seems like the receiver for the strap, on the frame of the car is the issue. When the ball rolls out of the check strap, the receiver slaps against the frame in a cracking sound. I'm not really sure how to access this from inside the frame. Maybe I need to drill and tap a screw from the outside, to hold the receiver tightly against the frame?
Just removed the EGR controller and did the wiring trick, to revive my tachometer. That was an easy 10min fix!
Quote:
Originally Posted by resago2000
steering wheel play and wobble are likely the same issue. bad rubber bushings in the front suspension.
not too bad pricewise around $200 I guess.
how are the shocks? if bad, another $200
water leaks could be sunroof seal, door seals, or front windshield seal.
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I plan to diagnose which steering pieces are loose in the near future, but fixing the wheel bearing fixed a lot of steering play.
Shocks are in great shape, the rears look to have been replaced just a year or two ago.
Windshield seals are being looked at closely. Probably my last resort if water is still intruding in the cab, because they look to be a pain to replace.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ykobayashi
Wow. I bought a 85 Cali 300d two years ago. It was about as neglected as yours. A lot of the same issues. Rather than go over them here you can read about them in my 300D rebuild thread.
Good luck. Looks like a lot of projects. We had a lot of the same issues. All of them are fixable.
Got a 1985 300D turbo |
I'll read thru! Glad to hear most of my car woes are fixable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonnyMorrow
Welcome. It looks like you have a good project on your hands and most of that stuff is the typical stuff that wears down on these cars. I'm assuming you are doing all of the work which will make it significantly cheaper to repair. Those recent repair bills are high up there. I guess that is good to note for people looking to get into these cars.
Where are you in Northern California?
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Thanks! I plan do do as much of the work myself as possible, even though I'm not too experienced as a car mechanic...
I'm located in Napa...Cheers!
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdoublenastywitit
Buff that paint out and it will come back.. I think $2400 is a fair price for that, especially with 0 blow by, 85 model, red color, and it seems to be getting A LOT harder to find w123's let alone good ones.
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I did a quick buff when I brought home the car. If you click the photo, you'll see an 'after' shot!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911
If your Oil Cooler Hoses are seeping change them as some have lost engines because the Rubber under the crimped collars shrinks and the hoses can slide out or simply break off under the crimp (oil pressure can be as high as 110 pis).
Oil cooler hoses again. If the drivers side motor mount collapses some have had the power steering belt cut through one of the Oil Cooler Hoses.
You can try adjusting the steering Box Play. There a Nut (often well rusted) with an Allen screw in the center. Once the Nut is loose turning the Screw counter clockwise takes up the play. If you adjust it to tight you will be rocking your wheel back and forth to go straight.
"Oil pressure gauge in cluster is leaking on my left foot" I suppose the fitting could be loose but usually the inside of the gauges has cracked.
Under the floor mates are rubber plugs you can remove so the water drains out.
Usually plugged drains and in the Body or the results of plugged drains which is rusted holes into the interior.
Highly suspected area is the area the hood springs are in and below the Battery on the Fire wall.
Next would be rust holes under the Windshield and Rear Window Seals.
Inspect the Rubber Flex Discs on the Drive Shaft. The Transmission end one is hard to inspect. If the Transmission one comes apart it has been know to crack off the Transmission Tail Shaft. Don't use Chinese Flex Discs and each Drive Shaft End has a Centering Bearing.
Lemforder Motor Mounts are the same as the genuine Mercedes ones and are made by the Phoenix company. Lemforder Flex Discs are made in Germany.
See post #10 for some cracked flex disc pics: 1985 CA 300D- Newly bought, need help big time |
This is valueble info, thank you. I'll check on the condition of the Oil cooler hoses. Planned on replacing my motor mounts sooner, but I wanted to solve some of the oil leaking issues first, as I heard that will degrade the rubber quickly. I didn't know faulty mounts could destroy the hoses however, so maybe those will need to be replaced sooner than I planned.
Is the flex disc relatively easy to remove for inspection? I'll do some research on that project as well.