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Old 06-26-2003, 08:55 AM
vince vince is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 401
The fan is held on with a single 8mm hex head (allen) bolt. You can cut off the short end of a conventional allen wrench (a hack saw works fine) and use a short piece of pipe as an extender to loosen/tighten it. To lock the hub you need a piece of 1/4" rod with a bend of about 30 degrees at the end. The bent end should be about 3/4" long. The whole rod should be at least 8" long to be able to work it comfortably. It fits between a pair of cast in ribs on the fan bearing housing. The short (bent) end of the rod slips into a hole in the back of the hub. You might need to move/shift some wiring at the front of the head to see down to the area I'm talking about. Your pump is held onto the block with hex head (allen) bolts. The earlier engines used conventional bolts. You cannot use the Snap-On tool. The bolts require a 6mm allen tool. It would be a good idea to have several different 6mm allen tools on hand. A ball-end allen tool is handy. If I remember correctly, two are a fairly straight shot. The other two are not. I think the bottom front is where I needed the ball-end allen wrench. A ball-end allen socket might be handy, but clearance is an issue. I used to remove the P/S Pump, but after reading this forum I tried it without removing the pump and it went fine. You will need to remove the belt tensioner and the three legged sheetmetal support in front of it. The outer bolts also fasten the P/S Pump, if I remember correctly. There are nuts at the back. I can usually access and hold them with a breaker bar and a 13mm socket. The tensioner turnbuckle assembly will fall off when you pull the tensioner. Look it over first so you know how it goes back together. I don't think the heater pipe "O" ring comes with the pump. Get a thermostat "O" ring also. You can remove the thermostat while you fill the coolant to easily aand quickly vent the air out of the block and head.
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