Otherwise a terrific car, this car has had driveability problems for 5 years. Originally it would start and run fine until I shut it off. Then it would easily restart when hot but dog and quit when I tried to drive away, with the "economy" gauge deflecting fully to the right while it was dying. I had the O2 sensor replaced and the idle mix adjusted and that problem is gone but now it has different problems (immediately after the other repair). Now the idle speed oscillates between about 400 and 700 RPM with a frequency of about 1 time per second. I can feel this even when the car is in drive. Also, about half the time when I accelerate, it hesitates, sometimes a LOT, even if I accelarate from coasting at most speeds below 50 mph, to thepoint where transnission shifting is somewhat clunky. It appears that, if I wait until the rpm oscillation is at its maximum when I accelerate, it works fine but at low ebb it dogs. Also, it has a propensity to die as I pull up to a stop sign and stop. When it does that, I have to crank a long time to start it. Also, often when starting it hot, it now dies as the starter lets go and I have to crank a long time to get it to start again. When it does start, it runs fine with the limitations described above. It definetely appears to be an idle mix problem but no one here seems to be able to figure it out.
I have tried different gasolines, even the so-called "special" fuel for collectible/off road cars (no ethanol in it) with no difference. I always use top grade premium.
The Computer show no codes but the I/O port on that does not work anyway (the "check engine" light does not come on as it should with the ignition in the run position but engine not started, nor does the diagnostic port communicate with the tester - this has always been the case, however, since I have had the car.). The computer had been replaced once (prior to my having the car) with a "rebuilt" unit.
I have little or no faith in our locals because I also recently had a timing chain jump a tooth. Neither of the local MB shops could figure out what was wrong and I myself had to diagnose the problem for them so they could do the grunt work. (I cannot believe any trained individual could mistake the performance of a car with a timing chain off by a tooth with a distributor cap, $300, or poor compression, another useless $250 to test!) Likewise, in my last discussion with one of the local MB mechanics about this issue, his answer was "junk it". Not a very helpful reply to say the least. There don't seem to be many MB "Geniuses" here in Minneapolis/Saint Paul!