A sticking piston will cause one wheel to slow faster than the other, even grab. This may cause the ABS to operate, causing the vibration. It's working normally, the brakes aren't.
Loss of pedal after driving sounds like warped rotors -- they will also cause vibration on braking at low speed, and will push the pads back too far, causing the loss of braking after driving -- you have to push the pads back out.
Loose front wheel bearings will do the same thing.
If your rotors are too thin, chances are they are also warped. Get new rotors, pads, and plenty of fluid.
Uneven pad wear is usually a result of a sticking piston -- that pad will be thicker than the others. Remember that the outer pads wear more than the inner ones, too.
Change the pads and rotors (I'd stick with factory ones, the cross drilled and slotted one are for racing, they only reduce braking on the street with so little effect on suspension you won't feel it). Install rotors and pads, check front wheel bearings, and the bleed the brakes. Clean the slots in the caliper for the pads. Put some antiseize on the sides and back of the pad (NOT on the brake material, please!).
Get a piece of clear plastic line that will fit over the bleeder valve on the caliper.
Put the plastic tubing on the bleeder valve with the master cylinder cap off. Put the free end in a clear container so you can see what comes out. Open bleeder. Gravity will slowly run the fluid out. Let it run until you get clear fresh brake fluid out (this works best when the pistons are pushed all the way back). Close bleeder, move to the next wheel, and repeat.
Rears will be very slow, but you can do this yourself, no need for a helper.
You can also use the bleeder accessory that comes with the MitiVac, if you jdo, be careful not to suck all the brake fluid out of the master cylinder!
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!