View Single Post
Old 07-30-2003, 11:16 AM
brookspw's Avatar
brookspw brookspw is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 551
Originally posted by haasman
A couple of additional thoughts regarding the DIY brake job-

-It is a good idea to compress the caliper puck into the caliper. It makes the installation of the pads and the new thicker rotor (disk) easier but also cleans and "lubes" it.

One caution though: Take a closer look at the master cylinder. If it is full, you will need to remove some brake fluid so it doesn't spill out and curdle your paint.

-Never pry against the rotor ..... NEVER

-I use extra-large channel lock plyers to compress the puck into the caliper. I use either an old brake pad for one side and the out housing of the caliper on the other.

-If you clean the rotor (some don't require this, so be *absolutely* sure which is required of your new rotors) make sure they are completely clean. Twice in the past I have *thought* the new rotors were clean. Just a little grease, oil, residue will cause eventual "high-spot" resulting in pulsating rotors and brake pedal. If in doubt, clean them again, both sides before installing. BTW, a simple dot of pad lube the size of the period at the end of this sentence can cause a problem.

-Break squeak: Typically pads come with shims and some with anti-sqeak paste. You should put the paste (lube) on the "upper and lower" edges and the back of the pads, only. Be careful of this lube in that it will lube the braking friction surfaces (which you don't want).

-If your brake pad sensors have any wear on them, replace them.

-I have found that if you turn the steering wheel full lock, it is much easier to access the caliper.

-The retaining bolt is straightforward but it often will turn unless you also hold its respective nut. The catch here is that the nut requires a thin wrench. You can substitute with another tool (vise grips etc) but ideally you want to use a thin headed wrench.

Great post. Haasman is always full of it. Good DIY advice, I mean:p

Question: When I purchased my car (1/02) the front rotors were warped. Purchased ATE rotors and Textar pads. I was very careful about the installation and made sure the hub face was very clean and the rotor had a flush seat. Worked like a charm.

2-3 months ago, rotors (1 at least) is somewhat warped and pulsates at breaking from high speed. The left front, when I looked at it, has a couple of spots that are about 2 inches, and are lines that are concentric with the circle of the rotor. They seem to be the "high" spots that pad catches on when you turn the rotor.

Now, I know that the lugs and wheel actually snug the rotor up. SO, how can I tell if what I am seeing with the wheel off (rotor not tight) is what is actually happening with the wheel on.

Also, I did not know about cleaning the rotor. With what should I clean it? Alcohol?

Thanks, Phillip
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
Reply With Quote