Diff mount replacement requires dropping the diff to get clearance and a puller to remove and replace them. Usually seriously stuck, I have been reliably informed. Alignment is important on the right side one, there is a "special tool" for this -- measure the location fore and aft before removing it, make sure it's in the correct position or you will have problems getting the front diff mount back on.

I'm going to drop the entire subframe on mine as I have to do links, subframe mounts, and diff mounts, and it will be much easier on the floor rather than under the car.

dying links in the rear suspension will make the car pull one way or the other. When they get loose, you will get torque steer -- will pull one way on acceleration, the other on deceleration, usually with a nice clomp from the rear and eventually the sensation that the rear suspension is moving around under the car. It is.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!