However, the clutch drive pin broke after it had worked for less than 5 up/downs! More on that below. Here's an update on the previous discussion.
WJM, you are right on both points. I had stated:
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If there is no signal to the trigger wire, but 12V to the constant wire, it will stay down. If there is no signal to the constant wire, but 12V to the trigger wire, it will stay up.
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So, regardless of how the source of the 12V is switched on or off (radio trigger wire, IGN or ACC switch, remote amp lead turn-on wire), any 12V signal fed to either wire will make it go up or down.
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Your comments were:
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I don't think so. Again, constant wire should have 12v and ground wire should be grounded. The trigger with 12 volts makes antenna go up. No power on trigger makes it go down.
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Don, have you actually tested this? I think if you cut power to the constant wire, the motor is disabled. No up or down happens.
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The constant and the ground must be connected for the trigger to have any effect.
If the mast is up when the constant is disconnected, when it is re-connected, and the trigger is not supplying 12V, it goes down.
If the mast was down when constant disconnected, the trigger won't make it go up until constant is re-connected.
So, I think that also answers my other question about how to keep it up so as to ignore the trigger, whether it is powered by the radio switch or an IGN source. A simple on/off switch to the constant wire (or ground for that matter) will, as you say, disable the motor. For me, I can switch 'off' for 'up' all the time in winter. For the OP above, he can switch off for up all the time, and/or transfer the trigger to IGN instead of radio for up when the car is on, down when stopped.
Now, on to the repair of the clutch, which would be the sheared off pin in the leftmost pictured gear, the one on top of the drive when you open the case.
(My picture didn't get captured, so I'll post a reply to insert it. Can't add a picture with the edit mode for some reason)
I used a fantastic German made glue to initially get the pieces back in position, then drilled a very small hole enlargement in the slot to allow inserting a tiny bolt/nut to re-inforce the plastic pin. Did this to both antennas, first to the cheapo for a proof of concept. Time will tell, but I'll bet it will last a long time.
I also transferred the circuit board from the cheapo to the Hischmann, since mine was burnt up, and it works great too! The cheapo is in fact a carbon copy of the Auta 6000, so the electronics don't know the difference.
Hope this helps someone else.[B]