View Single Post
  #10  
Old 10-03-2003, 12:16 AM
TomJ TomJ is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Back in Colorado for now
Posts: 1,315
Quote:
... Can you give us a provenance of the various parts involved in this tranny swap? ie: year of transmission, year of the engine, any known history...etc.
Here's the skinny so far;

Pulled a junkyard tranny from a 1982 240D along with the following parts; shifter assy (complete), shift linkages, flywheel, throw-out lever, front half of driveline, all the bolts to the flywheel AND pressure plate (and of course to the linkage assy.)

Vehicle it's (maybe) going into is a 1984 300D Turbo Diesel.

The shifter assy was completely dis-assembled and rebuilt while waiting for a new clutch and pressure plate. I'll post pics of that in a new thread soon.

Completely de-greased the tranny and replaced the in/out bearings in the tranny, the front and rear seals, all shifter seals (funky silvery O-rings from MB) and the shifter bushings.

A buddy in the local full-size Jeep club has done this swap to four vehicles and says the driveline needs to be cut-down two inches.

I called six different driveline places and the response ranges from "can't do it to those type driveshafts" to "it'll cost $150 and we need the other driveline to balance as a complete assembly.

What I've learned so far;

1) driveline could be a major headache to get modified.

2) pull your bad automatic ASAP and take an inside mic to the crank bore to see if you'll have the problem I'm having with the pilot bearing. If it mic's 34mm, part the car out on ebay and find another. If it's 35mm, you're good to go.

3) don't think about going to this much work if your NOT going to use a new throw-out..., excuse me, "release" bearing, pressure plate and clutch.

4) their's lot's more to D/C than I originally thought when pulling the auto trans. Wires, cables, fittings, cooler lines, etc.

5) somehow, find caps for the radiator coolant line connections (not a "plug", you need a "cap")

6) seems to be no way to remove the shift console without breaking the plastic retainer that holds it at the back so find one at a junkyard that "might" not be broken.

7) might as well dis-assemble all of the switches in the shift console while it's out for the shifter swap. Easy to get to now and they are cake to take apart and re-new (will post on that with pics later too).

8) remember to make a note of the last 6 digits (or all for that matter) of the VIN of the DONOR vehicle for future ref.

9) make a note of the transmission # cast into the side at the horizontal parting line (you'll need this when buying the various tranny parts)

10) for G**'s sake..., get someone ELSE to do the work (unless your're professionally un-employed like me ;-)!!!)

Advice: since the car is up on jacks all four corners at this point, might as well change the diff fluid (to synth).

While under there, you'll notice "Gee the axle boots are shot, no more lube in the CV's and they're rusted in there?"

Replace the axle seal at the differential when you take the axle out for any reason (but it's NOT an inner axle seal it's a "Differential Side Cover Seal". Go figure.)

Replace the oil pan gasket too since it'll be sitting for a while in the air while waiting for the right parts to come.

As soon as it's up on jacks, take some engine cleaner to the complete underside, engine and tranny and spray it off good. Getting black and greasy for days on end can strain a relationship (or be a major vector for close range gunshot wounds!)
__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


=========================

"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol
Reply With Quote