To change the bulb that lights up the shifter selector, you need to remove the wood around it. First, open the rolltop box and remove the two screws at the front. Lift the box out and then remove the screw underneath it. Lift the wood trim up starting at the rear. Disconnect the switches. I think the bulb plugs right into the side of the black plastic box around the shift linkage, but you might have to remove some screws.
As far as the bulbs in the instrument cluster, you need to use the special "pulling hooks" to pull the cluster out. Once it's out, the bulbs pop right into the back.