I just replaced the clutch master cylinder on my 83 240d last week. I tried everything - there are no shortcuts around using reverse bleeding through the slave cylinder. I went to AutoZone and bought 3 feet of 3/16" ID fuel line. This works perfectly to go from your passenger side caliper bleeder to the slave cylinder bleeder. The deal here is that the clutch pedal attaches to an actuator rod. When you push the pedal down, it pushes the piston of the clutch master cylinder in, but when you let go of the pedal, the rod comes back up but it has no way of pulling the piston back up. This is the reason you can't "pump" the pedal to bleed it like you can on the brake system. The procedure is actually easier than it sounds and can be done by one person (I had to - my car broke down at work which is 30 miles away from my house). You can open each bleeder, attach the hose at each bleeder, pump the brakes until the clutch pedal comes up, wait a few minutes to make sure the air bleeds back up out of the clutch system, then go to each bleeder and tighten the bleeder. Then you can remove the hose. I found that it actually bled my brakes and I now have better pedal on my brakes too. If you wanted to change fluid in your system this would be a good opportunity to do so - I bought a big bottle of synthetic DOT3/DOT4 fluid at AutoZone for $3.99. Hope this helps.

Lance
'83 240D 117K
'98 ML320 78K
'80 Ford F150 109K w/ original 8-track player!