View Single Post
Old 11-18-2003, 05:47 PM
Greg in Oz Greg in Oz is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 627
Originally posted by 95300YDT-A
Dear Greg,

I think your clutch problem is very intriguing. I never heard about that.
But a case is only lost when we give it up.
And we don't want to, are we.
I will not give up until I solve this!

Originally posted by 95300YDT-A

So I decided to do a "brainstorming" about this with my Indy. He is a honest and modest AND independant MB specialist, ashamed to ask the prices he has just to survive.
MB-stealership in my home town goes to him to get all those 6xx rebuild ( and they have a famous MB-rebuilder just 15 miles away in the next town !).
Well, I'll try to explain what reasonable explanation he came up.
As you allready understood : English isn't my mother's language so I am sorry and please feel free to ask any questions. So here we go.
Your English is just fine!

Originally posted by 95300YDT-A

Neither of us believe your theory about the hydraulic system. Everything you told is correct but again neither of us could imagine that could cause enough force to make the clutch slipping.
I'm sorry that you don't believ my theory but it's the laws of physics. Expanding hydraulic fluid can exert huge force, much more than is required to release a clutch. Without the ability to return to the reservoir, fluid expanding with temperature will displace the piston in the slave cylinder thus releasing the clutch.

Originally posted by 95300YDT-A

You replaced the clutch by a new one, excluding the clutch as a cause.
But did you checked out the wear (the real thickness of the flywheel at the contact-with-the-clutch surface ? The wear of the plate pressing down the clutch to the flywheel ( don't know the correct name in your language ) ?
If you did't : do it.
If the contact surface on the flywheel is still OK ( or even when it's not ),
let eventually grind (mill ?) down the surface on the RIM of the flywheel, there where you bolt on the "pressing" assembly to compensate the weardown of the contact surface and you"ll see : no more slipping when hot !
What do you think of it ?
Don't forget to communicate us a follow up !
Thanks in advance and good luck,

I have not replaced the clutch since my measurement with the gauge suggests it is still OK. Without residual pressure in the hydraulics it certainly works OK without any slip. I think replacing the clutch and flywheel (dual mass flywheels such as that in my car should not be machined) would be a very expensive and time consuming option, especially considering that I have not diagnosed the clutch plate or flywheel to be at fault. Without perfectly convincing evidence of the cause of the problem, I would prefer to replace less expensive components such as those associated with the hydraulics which with the evidence I have to date are still the main suspect.

Please don't take this the wrong way. I am appreciative of the interest both you and your tech are showing. I will post more replies and further findings on the other thread at
I was hoping one of the MB techs had experienced this

107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.
Reply With Quote