Thanks for your input and prompt response Gilly. I really appreciate it.
Regarding what the top is or isn't doing, here's what happens. While in the process of bringing the top down or up, the process would just stop. The light on the switch would still light up, but there's no more further mechanical operation, except for the quarter windows. Those small windows still would go up and down (thankfully as it has rained here). I would then have to manually close the top by following the instructions in the owner's manual by bleeding the pump, and manually securing the roof and the trunk lid. The quarter windows, however, would still go up and down, but everything else related to the hardtop operation would not work (i.e. the trunk lid opening and the roof coming down).
Also thought I'd write you the technician comments from both my vists just to get your take and any further suggestions you may have. Hope you don't mind.
1st visit - "Manually loosened bleeder screw and secured the roof to the trunk. Roof wil not open and trunk lid is not flush to rt quarter panel. 40 fuse blown and hydraulic unit relay bad. Fluid low and both RAMS for retractable top seeping. Function test top it was inop, install sds and check for codes severa over limit codes cleared codes and activate top only window operate, found fuse 25 blown, installed breaker still inop tested all switches they were ok. Found relay for hydraulic unit bad need to replace fuse and relay before diagnosis, may need hydraulic. Unit low on fluid and both top rams seeping. Tested top several times it worked ok but temp for hydraulic top pump code came up low fliud low? Replaced relay and fuse topped off fluid, temp code no longer comes on, and fuse not blowing. Will need to have leaks fixed and hydraulic unit replaced if acts up again."
2nd visit - "Replaced fuse 40 and hydrolic unit relay. Recommended may need to replace hydrolic and repair leaks if problem persists. Recommend hardtop pump assy and both rams. Function CK retractable top, verified inop, ck for codes, found B1263 hydraulic unit temp above 95 deg C. B1266 Hydraulic unit jammed. B1272 limit switch signal S69/1, s69/2, s69/3, cleared codes, ck roof operation. found trunk switch out of adjustment, adjusted switch, ran hardtop pump, ck pump temp temp was at 110 deg. set code and stop ped working, ck pump fliud level, it was low, topped off pump, rechcked pump still setting codes for pump temp and jammed, cleared and lubed top hinges, still setting codes, hardtop cylinder rams starting to leak."
After re-reading all this, I guess the technician did 9 hours worth of work, but it may have ended up not doing much. Does all this justify a $2.5k repair, in your opinion?
Hi Gilly! I am his Dad and a mechanical engineer but I can not really understand what the service technician was saying. I agree with you, seems unlikely that pump and piston pumps would all breakdown for $2,500 + (after they already billed $1,000 for 9 hours of labor, 3 sets of fuse and a relay) I was certain that they did not know what their doing and using my son to finance their experimentation. They never measured or said anything about the hydraulic pressure measurement which make more sense than the temperature. They keep saying a leakage but then, there is no sign of leakage whatsover. I bought a C class from this dealership and I intend to buy another car next year and certainly will avoid them but youur suggestion would be appreciated.