I searched the archive and came up with tons of great stuff, but not what I'm looking exactly.
83 300D, 242K, original trans af far as sevice records, the PO and myself are aware.
Shifts hard, real hard, no slip, shift points were a little random and low unless your foot was in it.
I've been learning the in's and out's of this car the last month or so, have not had it long, so bear with me..
Sorting through the vacuum system, the modulator is hooked to the vent to the pass compartment. When back on the injection pump's top line from the valve, it shifts as it should, with the exception of sliping on the 2-3 ocasinaly and always on the 3-4. No flare, just slip for 1.5-2 seconds before it falls into gear solidly.
Adjusted the bowden wire, shift points seem Ok, I have very little frame of reference for this model. It also takes about three seconds to drop into reverse.
Now, my assumption is that the trans is worn and needs to be rebuilt, and that shifting so hard with no slip has let it function this long, I believe it's been this way since about 120K miles when my father bought it.
The question IS.. Should I leave as is with hard shifts due to the modulator not being connected(it's lasted this long, does not slip), OR, should I atempt to jack the line preasure up via the T handle I've read so much about to firm up the slipping 3-4 and still be able to use the modulator, thereby haveing non neck snaping, sideways in the rain, shifts. Note that I really don't mind the hard shifts, even prefer them almost.
Which is preferable? I don't like either a darn bit, I like things to be right, but I'm pretty much without choice for the forseable future.
The vacuum to the modulator looks to be correct by the way, and the modulator does not hold vac for the five minutes spec'd in the service manual, but it's not really bad either. And the slightest vacume will cause a slip too, as I was only seeing 5inches when the switchover valves were connected(leaking). I removed them from the circuit and saw a solid 25 inches that gradualy fell to 0 directly off the valve port on the injection pump, which I believe to be correct. Yes the EGR system needs attention, I'll talk myself into spending $60 on little plastic valves sometime soon..
Thanks a ton for any advice, I hope that was at least fairly comprehendable..
One more Radar Lover gone...
1982 VW Caddy diesel 398K 1.9L AAZ
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