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Old 01-03-2004, 08:11 PM
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Tomguy Tomguy is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: near Scranton, PA
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Well, having gone through this so many times myself, I can probably provide advice (or so I hope!)

What I did was disconnect the "T" and hooked the source line directly to the line going to the driver's door (bypassing the tank), because the tank takes a VERY long time to pump up and holds the vac longer, making it harder to detect a leak. First I actually checked the tank alone - vac pump connected to my tank held 15" of vacuum overnight with no drop off.

Then I checked the easiest spot for me to get at - the trunk and gas locks. On the RH inside of the trunk there is a plastic piece (oblong about 4" long 2" high) that covers the "T" line going to the trunk lock and the gas lock. I tested the trunk and gas locks individually (my trunk one was the source of my leak!) and then tested them together further up - the line runs along the RH side (under a plastic piece, if yours isnt cracked/missing, mine was). I cut the line here and tested it, then reconnected it (Oh, so you know, go to the auto store and pick up 2-4' of vac line for under $1 usually, it goes a long way - cut 3" pieces and replace all the old rubber ones).

Then I checked the entire system again, and it was vac tight. If yours isn't though, take your LF speaker out and take the molding off the side (A real PITA - it's clamped in well). There is a "T" in there where the line goes from the switch in the door to the LR door and the other to the R-side doors, trunk and gas - since you checked the gas and trunk, if this leaks, it must be the right doors, if the other leaks, it is the LR door).
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