View Single Post
Old 01-02-2001, 03:13 PM
123 300D driver 123 300D driver is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Canada
Posts: 127
Keith, here is a write-up of my experiences on the front end:
Just for general information, I just finished replacing the upper inner and lower inner control arm bushings on my W123. Overall the job was easier than I expected after reading through the archives and none of the arms had
to be removed from the car.

Lower Bushings: I used the bottom 1/2 of a generic "J" hooks-style spring compressor to compress the coil spring from the inside going upwards. Compressed just enough to take the pressure off of the lower arm. Then after removing the eccentric bolt, pried out the aluminum tube and then the old bushings using two pry bars together (with the arm still attached to the car). Slicked-down the new bushings with a minimal amount of silicone grease and pressed them into place with a C-clamp. Reattached arm and returned coil spring back to seat.

Upper Bushings: I replaced these with no support under the lower arm; the front shock takes all of the coil spring tension. Removed inner arm retaining bolt. Disconnected upper ball joint with a small gear puller and a small hammer (for persuasion). Rotated upper arm 180 degrees about the torsion bar? bushing. The old bushings pretty much fell out. Slicked-down the new bushings with a minimal amount of silicone grease and pressed them into place with a C-clamp. Rotated the arm back and reinstalled the retainer bolt and upper ball joint nut.

Observations: The upper bushings were completely destroyed relative to the lower bushings. I think they are somewhat under-designed given the function they serve. However, they are relatively easy to replace...1.5 hours approx. The lower bushings had concentric cracks in the rubber, but they were still intact. They were off center though, making a proper wheel alignment difficult/not possible. I don't think compressing the coil spring is dangerous as long as a center-type used. I wouldn't chance using a MacPherson strut (outer) type here because one of them is sure to slide to one side and maybe injure you or kill you in the process.

Before tackling this job, the leaning-in problem is most likely the upper bushings which fortunately are easiest to replace. I would do these first and then see if any problems persist.

Reply With Quote