Thread: oil change
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Old 01-07-2001, 04:37 PM
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longston longston is offline
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Location: Mark West, CA
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For additional information about motor oils and additives, go to : This is a website for GS Suzuki owners, but if you click on the link titled: "In The garage", then you will see two links titled: "More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil" and "More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil Additives". If that's not enough, or if you are reading this whole thread anyway, then read on. (You Fool! HA HA HA HAHA ...)

Patsy, You kill me! I love your responses! I think that you must play deep left field, and I love that!

JCE, You're on brother!

Kebowers, As regards Class - A or Highway 18 Wheelers, fleets and very picky owner operators usually do comprehensive oil analysis, the rest usually just run down the road. There are exceptions. And, yes these trucks do have large filters and large sumps, but they also have very large engines. Everything is relative. As far as mileage accumulation, it can vary from 300 miles a day x 5 days a week, or 1,500 miles a week to around 10,000 miles a week. In the case of the maximum allowable mileage, I am using a team driver configuration as a model where there are two drivers that swap at the end of each duty shift, and average 60 MPH for a full "legal" weekly duty cycle of 80 hrs in 7 days (on their logbooks, at least) . In other words, the only time the truck is not running is during refueling, loading, unloading, and maintenance.

Deezl, I was told the very same thing by my local MB dealer as regards the advances in engine oil quality, the closer tolerances achieved by computerized milling, and the advances in electronic ignition and combustion management systems and filtration media resulting in cleaner burning engines, and much higher oil change intervals being recommended for the newer models. Hence, the FSS. The system, as I understand it, uses sensors to determine the conductivity of the oil. Consequently, accumulation of moisture, iron oxide particulate, and microscopic metal particles from the engine itself achieves a point where there is conductivity, and the FSS tells you to change the oil. It is logical to conclude that one can extend the period of time where the FSS will indicate a change being required by changing the oil (and filter...) before it being electronically indicated as necessary. (Thank you, Mr. Spock)

1. Lubro Moly also produces a "Voll-Synthese" that is 0W-40. Their literature on this oil states: "Provides the fastest oil circulation after cold starting thanks to the 0 W-40 viscosity. This means optimum lubrication and a lot less wear from the first crank of the engine. Due to the lower drag resistance the engine runs easier and the fuel consumption is lower, up to 10% during the warm-up phase when compared to a conventional motor oil. The engine develops maximum performance and remains clean. Exceeds API SJ, CF; SH, EC, CF;ACEA A3-96, B3-96 VW 502 00, 505 00 (1/97), Mercedes Benz 229.1, Porsche (all models).

Perhaps an antarctic application?

Here's the scoop on oil viscosity:

"The Viscosity Index or V.I. measures the change of an oil's viscosity over a wide range of temperatures. The higher the VI of the oil, the less it will thicken when cold, and the less it will thin out when hot hence a high VI oil will be more effective when lubricating your engine over a wide temperature range.

Once you understand the SAE viscosity grades, you can choose the best oil for your needs. Here's a description of the five most common SAE multi-grade oils:

OW-30-. Premium winter grade oil. Provides year-round protection and fuel economy. Where SAE 5W-30 is recommended.

5W-30: Premium multi-grade oil for easier cold-weather starts, maximum protection, excellent fuel economy and added engine life. The preferred grade for cars
built after 1989.

10W-30: The best-selling premium multi-grade. Delivers excellent all-round performance for the average driver.

10W-40: A premium multi-grade oil formulated for hotter-than-normal running conditions. Provides good fuel economy and extended engine life.

20W-50: Thicker premium multi-grade oil for added protection against metal-to-metal contact; specially formulated to meet the needs of high-performance European engines."

2.Two different schools of thought here. Synth people may say the the synth provides superior lubricity and depending on the additives; detergent properties, protection against thermal breakdown, better fuel economy, superior protection against wear, etc. The majority of independent garages I spoke to simply use Castrol non-synth, and do not see any added benefits to using synth oil.

3. I used to be concerned about mixing, based upon flawed information I had received, but a blend of additional research combined with a dose of Larry Bible has cleared this up. Your answer: Misinformation and flawed data...

4. I have been told (hearsay evidence) that the filter media continues to function properly, and does not reach a point of "saturation" well beyond the point where the oil has need of changing. In the case of a "spin on" filter, you would be keeping a quart of dirty oil in the engine unless you removed it to drain it, and in so doing, may as well replace it. In the case of a "canister" filter, the oil drains out of the filter housing when the oil is changed, and there is no additional labor required. As Chico Marx once remarked, "There is no sanity clause".

5. I did an exhaustive search on the internet for an answer to your question, including a series of searches using "Ask Jeeves". While I got a barge load of information on everything from motor oil to olive oil, most of the responses containing the word "red" were about RedLine, and Red Star. I might conjecture that the oil color change is possibly attributed to either a chemical that reacts to an accumulation of iron oxides, or to a dye additive that breaks down as the oil is cycled through the engine and results in the oil becoming red in color dependant not on time, but severity of service? I would love to know the answer to that question, so on Monday, I'll call the Ferrari zone office here, and ask them!

Larry, Thanks for your answer. I have been misled about this DELO issue for years, and have always wondered what the deal was. I have been told by several mechanics never to use DELO in anything but a diesel engine. I really never thought to use it in anything else anyway, as I have usually used Kendall, Castrol, and/or Valvoline in my cars.

Finally, here's a quote from a website called "Matt's Automotive":

"Motor oils do more than you think.

It's easy to name the prime function of motor oil: to lubricate every moving part of your engine with a protective film that reduces friction. But motor oil has at least 4 other duties, and failure to perform them all can seriously reduce the performance and life of your engine.

First, your motor oil cleans your engine. Gasoline and diesel engines can produce soot, ash, acids and moisture which form sludge, varnish and resins. If they collect on critical engine parts, it means serious trouble. A quality motor oil keeps them suspended until filtered out or drained away when you change your oil.

Next, oil seals microscopic hills and valleys on piston rings and cylinder walls. Without proper sealing action, you'll lose power and waste fuel.

Motor oil also protects your engine against rust and corrosion.

Finally, oil cools vital parts such as camshaft, rods and pistons that the engine coolant in your radiator cannot reach, As much as 40% of the cooling job in your engine is performed by oil in the crankcase."

[Edited by longston on 01-09-2001 at 04:21 PM]
"We drive into the future using only our rearview mirror."
- Marshall McLuhan -

Scott Longston
Northern California Wine Country...
"Turbos whistle, grapes wine..."
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