These pages were intended to focus mainly around the W123 chassis (240D & 300D) but I'm sure many things are quite applicable to the W126 chassis as well.
Legal Disclaimer: By opening any of the following pages you agree that I am not to be held responsible for any actions or implications made in the instructive sites. They are merely meant to be a guide, there are other ways to do things and there are things which can be very dangerous if done incorrectly. NEVER assume anything, if in doubt ask! Safety is the #1 concern, there are more Mercedes out there, there aren't any replacements for you or your loved ones.
Main Page
Chassis:
Front suspension rebuild:
Front suspension rebuild leads to another page of links, which include rebuilding the
idler arm,
upper control arm, and
lower ball joints. I have not yet finished the page for the sway bar bushings but the link for it remains, followed by the CS (coming soon). I didn't do the lower control arm bushings but in the near future I'm sure I will. All of the previously stated items can be done without a spring compressor using the methods stated in the instructions.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123FrontSuspension
Fuel tank removal:
After accumulating an algae problem Dave Morrison created this page to inform us how to remove and clean the fuel tank in a W123.
Fuel tank sender removal:
The fuel sender page is quite a simple one as the task is quite simple as well!
Renewing steering feel:
This page has a simple breakdown of solutions to help eliminate that steering wheel play and make it feel like new again.
Steering:
Replacing Rear Subframe Mounts:
Here Richard Easley covers how to replace the rear subframe mounts in a W126, the W123 mounts are probably quite similiar.
Drivetrain:
How to replace the CV boots:
I go into almost terrifying detail here on how to rebuild your own CV boots. It does take some more specialized tools than the normal garage has but for I created the page for those of us sick of getting bad rebuilds or just would rather rebuild their own for a fraction of the price.
Remember flare, is when the transmission seems to go into neutral between shifts and the modulator can only be as good as the signal that the IP bleeder valve on top of the injector pump is.
Here is a page with quick descriptions of the vital parts involved in shifting adjustments along with some pretty decent pictures to go with them.
This page is yet another one dedicated to adjusting the transmission, it mainly focuses on the vacuum aspects of shifting which is vital to having proper shifts.
Basic transmission adjustment:
Gives a quick overview of modulator and bowden cable adjustmens. Also links to a page on troubleshooting tranmission related vacuum system problems.
Exterior:
How to change that broken power antenna mast:
Whether your power antenna mast has either got stuck in a position it shouldn't have or is bent, as long as the motor is good you can easily change out your antenna mast using these instructions.
Brake Light Modification
Looking around it seems that most of the accidents these Mercedes are due to getting rear ended most likely due to very poor brake lights. Fortunately most Mercedes in Europe had “rear fog lights” which leaves a blank spot for 2 more brake lights. OldNavy created this how-to to help make your Mercedes that much safer.
H4 European Light Upgrade (W126)
One doesn’t realize how poor the USdot lights are until they finally experience European code lights. E-code lights is what every country not in North America are mandated to use, they have a much more efficient reflector which means more light on the road and not in other drivers’ eyes.
Headlight Relays & Upgrades:
If you think your factory lights are pretty good well
you haven't seen anything yet! I've tried a few different things but ended up with european code lights for both the looks and excellent lighting they create at night. The factory DOT lights just didn't cut it. If you insist on keeping the US factory look there are replacements out there for the round 7" headlight which can be just as great if not better than the full headlight assembly replacement. On this page there is a pretty good run down on how to rewire the headlights such that they get the highest possible voltage to put out the most light that they can. I'm not positive but I believe anything over 80W low beams and 100W high beams should be rewired using this method. There are also good tips in there about rewiring the fog lights so they can be turned on with the parking lights rather than just with the low beams.
Getting the electric sunroof to speed up:
Sunroofs are excellent but when they are working to slow or are making bad noises they aren't so nice, here you will find information on how to speed up that slow sunroof. I have a pretty good feeling that almost all of you reading this have at one point in time had a problem with your sunroof being to slow. Most of this is caused by people using the wrong grease,
use only the Mercedes slide grease!! No matter how good you think your grease is, in time it will gum up and make your sunroof stick again.
Interior:
Resoldering Climate Control:
This climate control unit (CCU) or automatic climate control (ACC) is quite the Achille's heal of our MBs. They can also be quite interesting to troubleshoot the problems. There are many different failures which root different problems. Such as if the center vents quit then there are good chances it is that vacuum pod that needs to be replaced. But if your fan quits and doesn't come on with defrost then
new brushes probably won't fix it. However if you hear rapid clicking then perhaps
resoldering the climate control unit will fix your problem.
Cruise Control:
A nice series of sites about fixing that inoperative cruise control units. There are pretty good chances with a little work you can get it going again.
Cruise Amp Repair:
Resoldering Cruise Control:
Troubleshooting Cruise Control:
Brake Light/ Cruise Control Myths:
Clock Repair:
Richard Easley covers how to get an non functional dash clock working again in this DIY page.
Brightening your dash backlighting:
In a nutshell if you remove the cluster, take out the two bulbs which light the dash and clean them and the area the bulb lights you may notice quite a significant increase in light output at night. It tends to get dirty in there over time and as it gets dirty the light doesn't transmit as well, some people just clean it, others have painted it white or a chrome like color to help the light travel down the plastic lens which sends it to the gauge faces.
List continues below!