I don't know if anything is more annoying while driving than to have a
malfunctioning climate control system, my personal favorite is when it is below freezing in the car and the heat is in the vents but not blowing through. The solders on the circuit board are known to have problems from time to time, this is probably the number one reason why people buy a rebuilt unit. However with this DIY rather than paying the $150 or whatever it is with the little time to take this piece apart and a $10 soldering iron you can fix it yourself for good!
Before I go on to how to fix the unit itself I'd like to elaborate on symptoms of climate control issues and the most popular problems associated with them. First is the center vents don't seem to work right, perhaps while the a/c is on the windshield starts fogging or frosting up near the bottom even though defrost isn't on. That is a bad vent pod probably caused by a bad vacuum diaphragm or a vacuum leak. The replacement diaphragms can be found many places,
here is one I know of off hand. Another common problem is that the fan will only kick on if the climate control is set to defrost first with max fan speed, those are bad blower fan brushes. While you can buy a new motor for about $100 I find it much more appealing to
fix it myself for $6 instead. Another common problem is that the climate control only seems to work on max or min values, quite often this can be attributed to a disintegrated foam hose which runs from the dash to the temperature sensor for the climate control. Finally, the one that we are covering here. If your blower fan turns off and on intermittently, A/C is running when it shouldn't be, and several other very odd problems then bad solders could be at fault. On my own W123 my fan would work sometimes and sometimes not, but if I hit the center console near the climate control it would sometimes turn back on.
CCU, ACC, Climate control unit, Automatic climate control, Temperature, Heat, Blower, Brush, Armature, Monovalve, Defrost, Air Conditioning