Torque wrench is for tightening!
I hope you were speaking loosely when talking about slipping a pipe on your new torque wrench to get more torque. To do so will render your expensive torque wrench junk. Many better ones only have pawls in the ratchet mechanism to allow clockwise rotation, not counterclockwise. A torque wrench is a precision tool and must be treated with care if it is to remain accurate, and therefore useful. What you need is a $25 Craftsman 18 in 1/2-in drive breaker bar with a 6 point impact socket for loosening.
Now, pardon my ignorance here as I don't know if your car has lugnuts or lugs (male studs). If the latter is the case, it's important that if you find one very tight one after loosening others, that the others be retightened before attempting the snug one. I don't recall the exact mechanics of the situation but I believe that it's related to how they were tightened down. If one or more was brought to torque before the others were even beginning to pull torque, a force can result in the remaining ones after tightening that can make them real ba*&^^ds to remove. The key is torquing in steps when installing. Also use Never Seize not only on the threads but on the taper of the head where it contacts the wheel.