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Old 07-22-2004, 10:24 AM
tenknots tenknots is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 650
It appears that the gauge sender is on the LH side of the block whereas the t-stat and sender for the aux fan are in front, just before the radiator. This, I would think, has to be the hottest water since it's the last place it goes until it gets cooled.

I may be resigned to having the car run hot. Up to 105c is only about 221f, which is acceptable. 110c = 230f which is getting to the nervous point as there's little room for an increase.

My feeling is the radiator is the problem even though it's not very old. I hate shotgunning problems anymore than I have to, so before that, I'd buy a laser temp gauge.

I have hot water going in and the lower return hose is much cooler, so that makes me believe the coolant is being cooled. It's almost as if the engine puts out more heat than the radiator can handle. But, without a t-stat, the engine is much cooler (I've tried 2 t-stats) so the radiator must be sufficient. AARRGG.

I've disconnected and plugged the EGR (from the vacuum source) since it was leaking vacuum and effecting trans shift. There is a temp/vacuum switch on top of the t-stat housing that no longer does anything, but (and I grasping for straws here) could that have any effect on temp? EGR and temp don't seem to be interrelated, but I've been wrong before.
__________________
1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer
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