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another issue at hand is if your original bearings failed corrosion and pitting then you needed to change the bearing race as well.
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Yes, I changed both the inner and outer bearings
and races. I just didn't include any detail as it's well covered in other posts.
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I don't have a dial indicator in millimeters, and the shop manual calls for '0,01 to 0,02' mm, which I believe is .01 - .02 in NA notation.
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OK, I think I see the misunderstanding here. What I meant by 'NA notation', is North American notation for decimals is with a '.', not a ',' So '0,01' mm is '.01'
mm, and .01 Millimeters equals 0.000393701 inches.
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actually the correct way to read the adjustable play is in and out. not by rocking the caliper
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I didn't even have the caliper on. I pushed/pulled on the hub, as MB recommends.
I don't understand why putting the base on the rotor is wrong, since the hub face and rotor are bolted together as a single piece?
As I read the MB procedure, the pointer on the dial indicator is to be 'preloaded' 1 - 2 mm's. I took this to mean that I should adjust the base assembly so the pointer is pushed in 1 - 2 mm's, resting on the spindle end. I then adjusted the dial face so the needle lined up with a single mark on the circumference, which is calibrated with .0005" increments. Then, with everything tight on the base fixture, what difference would it make where on the rotor/hub the base is, since I'm measuring movement in/out relative to the end of the spindle where the dial pointer is resting?
I tried attaching the magnetic base on the hub flange, but it was too easy to knock it off while aggresively pushing/pulling the hub