Door panel removal:

Pull off seat adjuster knobs, unscrew lock button, remove trim on latch. Remove the handle on the mirror lever by prying out hte little plastic latch, then pull the triangular trim back. Watch that you don't break the clip up top (it does, usually, anyway, just use so trim cement on re-installation).

Pry off the plastic around the seat adjuster and interior latch handle, then push latch handle "bucket forward (or back I can never remember, it's obvious) until it unhooks and then pry the latch rod up and out.

Pull the foam back and unscrew the 10 mm screw holding the armrest upper end on, then lift panel straight up to dis-engage the hooks. Lift panel up and out.

Watch for speaker wires, wires to the lamp on the bottom of the door, etc.

To re-install, place panel on door so that the hooks are clear of the slots, fish lock rod up and start the knob on it, then push panel up against door and then slide down while hoding it againstt the door. It will be obvious if any hooks don't engage.

Rear doors are similar except you mus remove the window switch and ash tray, then pry the plastic housing for the ashtry out from the top, it locks the door panel on.

Broken panel hooks can be repaired with JB-Weld. Do not use 5-min epoxy, it's not strong enough.

The arm rest is attached to the panel with "melted over" hollow plastic pins. If loose, use a sheet metal screw and washer to re-attached.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!