Unless MB did something while I wasn't looking, those are ATE calipers back there. Use a 1/8" drift (or a large nail) to drive the pins back toward the center of the car, no need to remove the calipers unless you need to replace the seals (rebuild). Pins are a "tap" fit. The antirattle spring will snap up when you take the first one out.

Push the pads back a bit and they should pull right out. Note that if they have been pressed right up on the antirattle spring, the pistons will be stuck and you MUST rebuild the calipers (an easy job) or they will drag terribly and may even leak. You can free them up (after wrestling the pads out) by CAREFULLY stepping on the brake pedal until the piston comes free, but if you pop it out of the bore, you will have to rebuild (they always leak if you don't).

If the pistons press back easily, just drop new pads in AFTER using a small wire brush to clean ALL the rust and corrosion out of the pad slot. Put a small amount of antiseize (a.k.a MB brake pad paste) on the side of the backing plate where the touch the sides of the slot and some on the back of the pad where the piston touches - this prevents squealing. None on the pad material itself, please!

Put a bit of antiseize on the contact points of the antirattle spring, put it in place, and push one pin back in through the 'ears' on the pads. Tap home from the back with a hammer, then push the spring down and install the other pin.

Just about the easiest pad change I've ever seen (except that ALL of my MB's have required rebuilds the first time I replaced the pads).

If there is a distinct lip on the rotors, replace them, they are worn out.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!