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Old 12-20-2004, 07:41 PM
Duke2.6 Duke2.6 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,275
You need to be careful with pressure. Recently I watched a friend hook up a pressure bleeder to his Honda and pump it up to about 30 psi at which point the plastic reservoir blew off the aluminum m/c, and its contents flew far and wide. (What a mess!) I think our Merc's reservoirs are held in place by a couple of thick O-rings that fit in recesses in the m/c and reservoir, and at some pressure differential the plastic reservoir will either blow off or fracture and explode.

If you have an integral master cylinder/reservoir like the old GM cast iron units from the sixties and seventies you can probably use more pressure, but I really don't think it's necessary, and you need to use caution when dealing with a modern m/c that has a plastic resevoir.

I noted on the instructions for my buddy's pressure bleeding kit that is said to use 20 psi, but I would start with 15 psi, which should be plenty to rapidly purge fluid and air.

The recommended fluid change interval appears to be different for some years, but it represents an average for all climates and use. If you live in a very dry climate, like the southwest desert, it's probably okay to extend the change intervals. If you live in a damp climate (most of the rest of the U.S. other than the desert southwest), then it's probably a good idea to follow the recommended change interval if you want to maximize the life of the hydraulic components by preventing internal corrosion due to moisture or reducing the boiling point of the fluid, which can cause lose of pedal due to the water forming vapor at high temperture under severe brake useage.


Last edited by Duke2.6; 12-20-2004 at 07:55 PM.
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