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Old 04-16-2001, 10:51 PM
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Gilly Gilly is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
Wayne: I got a bunch of stuff printed out at work today. I didn't really spot any service information bulletin relating to the problem. Yes, I'd like to attack the cluster problem first, it may lead to the other problems. First I'll read off the first 3 steps in diagnosing a "dead" cluster, realizing the cluster isn't totally dead, they didn't have a test for this exact problem. You are going to remove the cluster and test sockets at connector 1 and 2, these are the large connectors with the sockets arranged in a circle. Connector 1 is the one on the left (when the cluster is installed, the one on the drivers door side) and 2 is the right side. Test step 1.0 is voltage supply circuit 30 (hot at all times, so key can be left off for this step). Connect a voltmeter to socket 11 and 12 on connector 2, should be battery voltage. Test step 1.1 is voltage supply circuit 15 (hot in run or start, key is turned to "ON") Connect your voltmeter to socket 1 and 10 on connector 1. With key "ON" should be battery voltage. Test step 1.2, also circuit 15, connect your voltmeter to socket 5 and 10 on connector 1, also should be battery voltage with ignition "ON". I assume you have enough electrical knowledge to comprehend all of this. I hope so, because I am going to explain the tests you just did. On test step 1.0, socket 12 on connector 2 comes from fuse 9, an 8 amp in the main fuse box. Socket 11 is ground provided by W11, I believe this is located on the engine. On test step 1.1, that socket #1 on connector 1 is unfused circuit 15, from the ignition switch via the powered side of fuse 5, not the fused side. If it fails that particular test, I would assume either a bad ignition switch terminal, or a loose screw on the fuse box bus. I would also assume it is going to fail test step 1.2, I'll explain later. On test step 1.1 now, the other socket(connector 1, socket 10) is ground, provided at W1, which is located behind the cluster off to the left, you'll see a mass of brown wires, there are actually 2 10mm bolts connecting these wires to ground, that's all considered W1. OK, onto test step 1.2, That is also circuit 15, but it is fused, comes from the fused side of fuse 5, that's why I say if it failed test step 1.1, it sure as hell is going to fail this test step also. I t COULD pass test step 1.1 and fail this test step if fuse 5 is blown. It uses the same ground as test step 1.1, the one behind the cluster. Now then, if this all checks out OK, per the electrical test program I have, the problem SHOULD be the electronic circuit board. I did some checking today on that, it is still available seperately, it cost more than I remembered. I also got some parts info on it. On a 129 without ASR, the P/N is 129-540-48-47-91. I believe the price on it was about $430. WITH ASR, the P/N is 129-540-71-48, and add a "80" behind that part number for a reman. I couldn't get a price on that one, as our computer in the parts dept is now busticated. The parts guy said something like "the number for that one is 'blocked'" I asked him what the hell that means, he said it means they will need the VIN number to order it........Don't ask me I only work here. Hopefully the electrical test program will help sort out what is all going on with the car and it won't come down to fixing the cluster then figuring out what else is broke. My money is on the ignition switch being bad, but we'll see. There are several terminals coming off and it wouldn't be the first one I've seen cause problems in one area of the car and leave other systems unaffected...Gilly
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