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Old 04-17-2001, 09:58 PM
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Gilly Gilly is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
Yeah, I'm thinking reman, the warranty is the same, 1 year, unlimited miles. First off I should point out just a couple quick things. The test "we" did is for the cluster being inop, it of course was the first basic step you would do if the cluster were totally dead. You're not totally dead, but hey, there's no test step for "cluster dead except clock and coolant temp are ok, so's the illumination and it seems like the warning lights work", so this is the best I could do, it's what I would do in the shop. Also I'll point out that at the end of test step 1.2 (the last one), it states "value OK=electronic circuit board. Now, I was looking the wiring schematic over some more after getting your last post. Her's one thing I am curious about: What effect does it have on the cluster if you pull fuse 9 or fuse 5? Pull one of these out and check out the operation of the cluster, then put it in, pull out the other and also see what effect it has on the cluster, in other words does it kill the clock, temp gauge, warning lights? Just a little self-test I thought of. The whole thing gets more confusing the more I look at the diagram, though. it seems like if you had problems with pin 12, circuit 30, that the clock wouldn't work. If you lost pin 1 circuit 15, most of the warning lights wouldn't work (BTW, does the generator (battery symbol) light come on, key on engine off? If you lost pin 5 circuit 15 the engine temp gauge wouldn't work. Maybe its a ground problem with the electronics board. I mean, these can do some crazy things with a bad electronics board. The wiring diagram makes it look so sensible how everything should work, but the wiring diagram is just that, it can't show you exactly how the circuit is layed out in the cluster or on the circuit board itself, so I think maybe it would be best to stick with the test results you have and hope for the best....Gilly
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