The European (non-airco) W123 heater systems have separate bulbs for the complete heater control panel and have one central bulb (behind the front plate of the console) for the fiber optic cables that run to the different switches (push-only) on the console.
None of the lights on a euro W123 are hard to replace.

greetingz,

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1990 300SL-24
1993 C250D with a minor 600+k kilometer
www.MBenzNL.com(the Netherlands)