So your rear door power windows aren’t working right. Welcome to the club. Here’s how to remove the rear door liner in a 95 S420. I expect earlier and later W140s have some differences so don’t take this to be a definitive guide.

Photos to accompany this guide are available in the W140 rear door liner album at http://photos.yahoo.com/tabijan. If someone wants to host this guide and the accompanying photos, please do so as long as there is no implied liability on my part or mercedesshop.com’s part. I have 3 megapixel versions of the photos if you prefer.

I didn't go through this with a fine tooth comb so let me... let all of us know if there are mistakes or shortcuts.

Here goes…

Tools I used:

- 2 small flat edge screwdrivers
- small Philips screwdriver
- big Philips screwdriver
- feeler gauge set
- 10mm socket with extension and breaker bar or ratchet handle

Remove the Philips screw holding the latch escutcheon and remove the escutcheon (photo 1). Pull the top edge out slightly then lift so the tab at the lower edge clears the door liner.

Fit a small flat edge screwdriver in the tab at the forward edge of the ~20mm by 15mm panel in the center of the horizontal door pull well and pry out the panel. The panel has clips on the long edges. Remove the Philips head screw (photo 2).

Fit a stiff slim blade between the leather trim and wood trim by the vertical door pull with the top edge of the blade about 20mm from the bottom edge of the wood trim (photo 3). I say blade but it’s probably better to use a dull instrument like a butter knife or a feeler gauge. Slide the blade upwards with enough force to release the clip. You’ll know the clip is released when the blade continues upwards past the midpoint of the rear edge of the wood trim. I don’t have the finger strength so I set a screwdriver on the bottom edge of the blade to apply more force. Be careful not to scratch the wood trim or leather trim. When the top edge slides to about 70mm from the bottom edge of the wood trim, there will be resistance from a second clip (photo 4). Use the same procedure to release the second clip. Photos 6, 7 and 8 provide some detail of the clips so you know what you’re up against. The aim of sliding the blade upwards is to pivot the clips upwards so they tuck under the wood trim.

Use the blade to gently pry the rear edge of the wood trim then pull the wood trim rearwards enough to create a ~5mm gap between the forward edge of the wood trim and the leather trim. Fit a blade between the forward edge of the wood trim and pull the forward edge of the wood trim outwards. Maneuver the wood trim away from the door liner. I don’t think there is clearance to pull the wood trim through the vertical door pull hoop so it has to come forwards.

Remove the two 10mm head bolts (photo 9) holding the vertical door pull to the door frame exposed by removing the wood trim.

Look at photos 9 and 14 to see where there are clips holding the door liner to the door frame. Starting at the forward edge of the door liner, pull the door liner away from the door frame. I did this with moderate finger pressure but there are special tools that reduce the risk of tearing the clips off the door liner. Work down the forward edge of the door liner then rearward along the bottom edge then up the rear edge until you have release three clips along the rear edge. DO NOT try to release the topmost clip along the rear edge of the door liner.

Look at photo 11 (but it won’t help much). Lower the window completely then lay a thick piece of cardboard or a strip of wood on the top edge of the window. Follow the contour of the top edge of the door liner as it curls into the window channel. Fit a screwdriver or prying device into the hidden edge of the curl and use the cardboard or wood strip as a lever point and gently life the top edge of the door liner about 5mm. Work from one vertical window channel to the other. No need to pry along the fixed quarter window.

Hold the door liner in whatever way suits you to lift it upwards. The cavity exposed by the wood trim is a good place hold the door liner. Pull up on the door liner enough to release upper edge from the window channel as well as release the topmost rear clip from the door frame (photo 12). Don’t lift the door liner completely off the door frame.

Pull the door liner away from the door frame so you can see the rod that attaches to the inside door lever (photo 13) and the electrical connections at the courtesy light, ashtray light, power window switch and whatever other switches there may be. My cheap-o S420 doesn’t have a power reclining rear seat like my 300SDL has L Make a mental or actual note of the orientation of the plastic crown of the inside door handle into which the rod attaches. Maybe the plastic crown spins in the inside door handle lever but maybe it doesn’t. Hold the rod with four fingers and press down on the plastic crown to release the rod. From this point, KEEP TRACK OF THE LOOSE END OF THE ROD. It’s just waiting to claim one of your eyes as a trophy. Depending on why you need the door liner out of the way you might be able to tape it to the foam barrier on the door frame. Release the electrical connectors at the courtesy light, ashtray light, power window switch and whatever other switches there may be. Release the wiring harness from the clip on the back side of the ashtray. The door liner should be free and clear of the door frame.

The rest of the photos show how my car came with duct tape holding the foam barrier together. It looks like the power window motor was replaced with someone deciding that it is easier to cut through rather than removing the foam barrier.

There are three Torx T-30 screws holding the power window motor assembly to the window regulator. Behond that there are two electrical connectors and a wire zip tie.

Installation of the door liner is basically the reverse of removal but I’ll run through it anyway.

Check that all the plastic clips are fitted on the door liner (photo 14). Some clips might have remained on the door frame. I used a couple of small flat edge screwdrivers to pry the recalcitrant clips off the door frame.

As the British say, offer the door liner to the door frame.

Attach the electrical connectors noting the clip at the back side of the ashtray that holds the ashtray light pigtail.

Press the door latch rod into the plastic crown on the lever of the inside door handle. Note the orientation of the rod in case the plastic rod doesn’t spin. I don’t think you can be too far off if the door liner is within 15cm of the door frame.

Put the door liner against the door frame with the door liner about 20mm higher than the door frame. Keep track of the topmost rear clip (photo 12) as you lower the door liner such that the edge under the curl slips into the metal clips along the lower window channel (photo 15). The topmost rear clip fits into a slot in the door frame. Pound the top edge of the door panel downward to engage the metal clips.

Ensure that the topmost rear clip is properly engaged in the door frame slot then work around the forward, lower and rear edges of the door liner pressing (or pounding) the clips into the door frame.

Install the two 10mm head bolts that hold the vertical door pull to the door frame.

Set the clips on the wood trim to the maximum extended position. Slide the wood trim into place engaging the clips in the slots on the forward edge of the leather trim. It’s difficult to see with the vertical door pull in the way. Maybe that’s why MB dealers charge what they do. When the clips are in place, push the forward edge of the wood trim into place to engage the clip in the door liner.

Install the Philips screw in the well of the horizontal door pull. Install the cover panel over the screw in the well of the horizontal door pull noting that the slot is in the forward edge.

Install the latch escutcheon. Engage the tab along the bottom of the escutcheon in the door liner then push the top of the escutcheon into place. Tighten the Philips screw.

That should do it.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL