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Old 06-30-2005, 05:54 PM
sbourg sbourg is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,303
If you plan to remove the ICV, first buy all the rubber in the vicinity. At the age of your car replacing it all would be wise anyway due to hardening and cracking, and it is unlikely to survive the disassembly process. Not an expensive deal, but a lot of trouble identifying all the right pieces. Phil at Fastlane worked with me to via e-mailed pics and parts diagrams to get all the parts. I also replaced the rubber bottom of the airflow meter plenum for good measure.

Much easier is testing pot function, since the plug is easy to pop off with the air cleaner removed. Replacing the pot means popping out the screw covers, then carefully scribing on the airflow meter body so the new one goes in exactly the same orientation (mounting allows it to rotate for calibration). This should allow you to start up. Replace the pot carefully - the wiper assembly is delicate and stays attached to the airflow meter assembly. Once warmed up, probe and measure from the center pin to ground at normal idle. Near 0.7V is fine, but allow to stabilize a minute or so after each adjust.

A good pot has little effect on steady-state. It provides acceleration enrichment as its main function. The erratic idle occurs because erratic contact fools the ECU that you're wildly thrashing the accelerator. Inputs from the pot, the O2 sensor, and outputs to the EHA and ICV end up playing a wild fandango. Then when you actually want to accelerate off idle, the pot fails to deliver the enrichment message in a timely fashion.

Steve
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'08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5
'83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7
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