Not sure on your car but on mine I have to remove the ash tray and then slide out the housing that the tray sits in. You may have a screw or two holding the housing in place. I don't recall if I had to remove a portion of the wood grain panel... but it should become obvious once you get started.
You should then see a wire that goes into the ash tray housing, along with another that goes to the cig lighter.
Leave be the cig lighter wire and pull the bulb socket out of the hole in the housing and then change the bulb by pulling it out of the socket.
[Edited by ejsharp on 06-15-2001 at 11:57 PM]
1993 190E 2.3
2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra