George,
I just recently had all of the bulbs in my dashboard replaced, but I had it done at the dealer.
As for the removal of the cluster, you are supposed to use the CLUSTER hooks (can be purchased at dealer) that you put in on either side of the cluster, twist so the hooks get the cluster, then pull it out.
But Spiderman (donald) says you can use coat hangers. Either way I would use a lot of caution when attempting this. I don't think it's hooked in by anything, just a snug fit.
Don't know how to replace the bulbs though...?
Good luck.

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)